SAINT MAXIMILIAN LANDSKNECHT REENACTMENT GUILD
   
 
 
CLOTHES

General Guidelines:
  • All garb colors, fabrics, and designs must be approved by the costume coordinator prior to starting the costume.

    • All clothing must be documented from a primary source (ie: woodcut). Artist renderings from later periods (ie: Osprey Books) are not admissible as primary source documentation.

    • The woodcuts/documentation used, as well as swatches of the fabrics, must be given to the costume coordinator.

  • All garb must be based on a woodcut/documentation from between the time periods of 1520 and 1540 (aim for as close to 1536 as possible) and be of appropriate ranking for your character. Multiple woodcuts can be used for the same garb (ex: doublet from one woodcut, sleeves from another, and hose from a third- as long as it' s kept from being too hodge podge). Please endeavor to make the garb as close to real clothing as possible - not only will it look better, it will last a lot longer, fit better and be more comfortable to wear.

  • The style of 1536 is significantly different from modern styles. Anyone designing and/or sewing a set of garb should pay strict attention to the woodcuts and not attempt to "modernize" or get creative with any of the costuming aspects. A few examples of the differences include:

    • Waists for both men and women were higher on the torso.

    • Clothing was fairly tight fitting for both men and women. In particular the men's tighs and crotches are much higher and tighter than most men are used to.

    • Yes, men wore hose!

    • If it's not in a woodcut you probably shouldn't be doing it.

  • Lining: The unique look of the landsknechts was created by the slashing of the outer layer of the garment. The layer that is visible beneath the slashing on the men's doublet is the second layer - not the shirt worn underneath the doublet or the lining. All doublet/bodice torsos must be lined. The "visible" second layer should be wool, linen, or silk (if appropriate the characters position). The inner lining should be made from strong cotton canvas or similar fabric in a neutral color. If thick enough linen can be found go for it! The purpose of this lining is to prevent the garment from stretching and provide some additional strength to the garb.

  • No machine stitching should be visible. Mostly this means no machine overstitching.

  • Color combinations for socks and hats do not have to perfectly match the primary colors of the costume. However, the colors should not clash horribly.


Fabric Guidelines: (Back to Top)

  • Primary fabric must be 100% wool.

    • All wool will be fulled. The wool can either be purchased as fulled wool or fulled after purchase. Wool can be fulled by washing in hot water, they drying on high - repeat until wool has thickened and no longer frays when cut along the bias-for men. Women should try to get lighter weight wool for at least their main color and it only needs to be lightly fulled. Wash all fabrics as they will be washed in the future. You will want to wash garb to resize it as wool stretches with wear.

  • Alternate fabrics such as silk or brocade may be used based on the rank/position of your character. The Costume Coordinator will make the final determination on alternate fabrics. All fabrics should be natural. Beware mixes that will make your garb less breathable.

  • ALL colors must be pre-approved by the Costume Coordinator prior to being used. There are no exceptions to this rule! Just because it is a documentable period color does not mean it will be approved. It is recommended that you get a swatch approved before you buy your fabric because if it is not approved you will be stuck with it.

    • Only period colors will be accepted. Period colors will appear slightly duller than modern renditions of the same color so some dying or bleaching may be required for certain colors. Keep in mind that most period dyes would fade quickly, modern dyes often stay really vivid. Good colors are mid to light colors in natural looking colors like oranges, yellows, golds, mustards, med-light greens, med-light blues, orangey reds, mid-light browns, olives, rusts, and dusty rose. No very dark colors allowed as main colors.

    • Garb should be limited to two (2) primary colors. A third color may be used for trim - BUT NOT as a primary color.

    • Black is prohibited except for some trim or hats. Accutra may be black if that's what you can find but it is recommended to use other colors such as brown for the leather and other items.


Accessories and Weapons (Optional)

Anyone wishing to carry a weapon must have begun training in that weapon in order to wear or carry it.

  • Knife
    • Eating Knives - Eating knives must have a wooden handle (?!) and simple steel blade no more than 6 inches (?). The cross guard should be very simple if present (no fantasy guards or hilts)
    • Fighting Knives - Only Rondells, Holbein daggers, and Messers are permited.


  • 16ft Pike
    • Pikes are not mandatory for Probational Members. However prior to become a Full Member in the guild, all men must own a 16ft pike. Specifications will be provided by the guild in order to preserve uniformity.


  • Other Weapons
    • Other weapons include Zweihanders, Cut & Thrust Swords, Halbards, and other period weapons.
    • The use and display of all weapons must be approved by the Guild Fechtmeister and must be documentable.


  • Armor
    • Armor is only required for those wishing to become a Dopplesoldat.
    • All Armor must be approved by the Guild Fechtmeister
    • Common armor includes leather jerkins/ ledergollar, bishops mantles, and Burgonet helmet. Full "Three-Quarter" armor is allowed and appreciated, but not required. Armor finishes may be either polished or "Black and White"


  • Quarter Staff/Walking Stick
    • Quarter Staff - This is the only weapon allowed (besides knives) permitted to women as a costume item.
    • Walking Stick - Any member may carry a walking stick when appropriate.


  • Foodware
    • You need to have at least a handleless mug or a goblet and it needs to be appropriate (no fantasy). A simple tapered, smaller at the bottom, round tumbler of metal or ceramic is the most appropriate or a round glass with straight walls and glass globules but leeway is given as the perfect cups are hard to find. You will also need to have at least an eating bowl, eating knife, and wooden spoon. Eating wear may be wooden or metal and should be of simple design. You must keep these in camp while you are marching/ on the battlefield, your cup should be left in camp if possible also. You must to have as the guild will not supply them to people (except visitors of course). A cloth or napkin of your own is recommended also. All women must have a water-carrying vessel, be it pitcher, canteen, bottle or otherwise. As close to the woodcuts as you can manage please. It is understandable that exact matches are almost impossible to find. We are searching for a source.


  • Jewelry/chains/favors
    • Gold chains are a popular thing to wear for landsknecht re-enactment but they do not suit the characters we are portraying. No chains unless your character rank allows for it and their use has been specifically approved.
    • All wedding and engagement bands or other symbols of mundane relationships are allowed but please hide them if they are not close to period looking and it is recommended you leave them home if they are particularly expensive. A period looking ring is allowed if you would like to wear something to replace your wedding ring or such important symbolic jewelry during faire hours whatever your character status. No celtic designs. No earrings for women, one is allowed for men. If you cannot remove your earrings, you should hide them, as you should hide all visible body piercings, tattoos, scarification and other modifications.
    • Favors besides the guild medallion should be kept to a very few period looking things and may only be worn on your hat.


  • Basket/ Trunk
    • Packbaskets are appropriate. Frauen can have market baskets as well. Everyone should have something period looking, such as a basket or trunk, to have in camp for their personal things. This will add to the look of the camp as well as be a place for you to put your eating and drinking tools and any other personal props or belogings when not in use.


PRECAUTIONS

The color purple, or any derivation thereof, such as lavender, plum, violet, etc., is strictly forbidden. No exceptions. The use of black or other very dark colors is severely restricted; it should be for trim only.

The use of velvet or brocade is restricted to guild members who meet ALL of the following qualifications: They have made a simple wool dress and worn it for at least a season with us and the use of such materials would be appropriate for their character's station. The use of silk is also very limited, but is more available for headpieces for members with less character rank. Deponi silk should only be used in places where not much will show as it has too many nubs. A similar silk but without nubs should be used. "raw" silk, noile, or silk taffeta or broadcloth are possibilities. Brocades must be symmetrical, one or two color only and non-Victorian ("pomegranate" shaped primarily - no hyper florals). Velvets must not be synthetics.

If you disagree with the costume directors decisions on something and you have a well backed up and documented item to dispute you may present it to the Hofrath. Be warned that if you do not have documentation you will be told 'NO'.

*NOTE* German words used for garb pieces are taken from the Textiler Hausarate. It is hard to tell exactly what what was called and some things have multiple names so we have used the closest approximation.

     Male Guidelines

     Female Guidelines

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