- Doublet/ Wams
- Must consist of an outer layer and an inner layer on at least
the sleeves unless they will not be slashed. Both layers will be
wool, unless the characters rank warrants more expensive material.
Prior approval of the Costume Coordinator is required for any alternate
materials. If there is slashing on the doublet there must be a second
layer of added, it is this inner layer that is visible underneath
- it is not the shirt or the lining.
- All doublets will have sleeves that are permanently affixed to
the doublet. They will be wool. Sleeves may be lined, but this is
not required and not need. Existing doublets that have detachable
sleeves but you can't tell are acceptable.
- Design - Doublets consist of two pieces. The first piece is the
primary doublet including the sleeves. This piece has a large U
shaped opening in the front. The bottom of the U is tied together
at the waist to hold the doublet closed. The second piece is the
brustfleck (breast piece) that fits into the U of the doublet (the
brustfleck may either exactly match the U shape or be slightly larger,
fit behind the first piece of the doublet, and tie or hook and eye
- Slashing - Slashing is optional on the doublet. Slashing may occur
on the sleeves, parts of the brustfleck that shows, sleeves, and
on the back of the doublet. Documentation must be presented for
all slashing. All slashing is in straight lines and no fabric is
removed. The wool will drape to form the characteristic curved gaps.
Slashing should be planned before hand so that pattern pieces can
be cut so the slashing will be on the bias to prevent fraying.
- Doublet must be tied to hosen except when fighting. There are
a few ways of attaching the doublet to the hose. The most period
way is time consuming to do but works the best. The bottom edge
of the doublet is and inch below the waistline and has lots of sets
of thread edged eyelets. The hosen goes over the lip and ties, which
are sewn in the middle of the tie, go through the eyelets and tie
on the inside. The brustfleck has corresponding holes in the bottom
edge of it also. It's confusing yes but it really can make sense.
See costume director or one of the men who has this style for instructions.
- Shirts worn underneath the doublet will be white/off-white linen
(or be of natural fiber that really looks like linen). Linen is
ighly recommended because the combination of linen under wool, even
with a cotton lining in between, particularly snuggly fitting is
a much cooler combination than any other. Linen wicks away the sweet
rather than getting 'swampy' like cotton. The shirt itself is a
very loose fitting garment that will general extend down to mid-thigh.
Tucking it between the thighs prevents chaffing. A renaissance style
shirt is acceptable, but no high-ruffed collars or Irish linya.
Ruffles should be no more than 1/2inch at the most. Necklines may
be simple gathered or smocked, they may have short standing collars.
Small ties for closures. Smocking recommended. Blackwork is fine
in moderation only for high ranked characters. No trim, beads, drawstrings,
collars that fold back on themselves or eyelets.
- Hosen will be high waisted (sit above the navel) and tight fitting
- Hosen are usually to just below the knee and of two layers, with
the top layer slashed to show the second. The top layer can be completely
removed from the thigh, leaving only short shorts on one side or
both. Matching over the knee hose should be worn under and held
up with garters. It is also acceptable to have one layer hosen to
the knee or to the top of the thigh and full length, unslashed,
hose underneath. Garters should still be worn at the knee if only
for looks. Hose should be 100% wool or linen, but alternate fabrics
are acceptable. Check with the costume coordinator for accepted
alternatives to wool socks. No flesh or lining should show through
- Hosen will only be slashed above the knee. (?)
- Hose may be vertically striped, solid, matched, or mismatched.
- Garters are required for all knee length hose in order to keep
the socks from falling down around your ankles. Simple strips of
cloth under the knee and right above the calf are acceptable. Garters
may also be wider strips of cloth folded and slashed.
- Cod-Piece - this all important piece of garb is essential to show
off you manly-ness. A cod-piece serves to hold your hose together
and allow "easy" access. A cod-piece should be slashed,
can be round or protruding, and can tie at one point or two. It
is highly advised that your cod- piece be functional. Please study
the styles current for us.
- Belts will be made of leather without fancy buckles, or of homespun-looking
rope, or simple fabric. Nothing should be worn hanging off the belt
except weapons unless absolutely necessary.
- Because we are often marching in the sun a hat called a tellerbarret
(platter hat) is the best choice. It is sometime s referred to as
a 'pizza hat'. It is a large fairly flat circle. The hat should
be made from wool and selected from a woodcut. Be very careful about
the size of the hat - don't make it too big, as it will get in the
way of your pike. Somewhere between 16" and24"(?). It
can be a simple circle but it is recommended to do the style that
is done by overlapping two somewhat more than half circles. There
are many other details that are allowed- there are many woodcuts
to chose from. The crown is usually a flat circle. You may have
a smaller hat if you are absolutely immune to the sun but it is
not recommended as your only hat.
- Feathers are optional; you may have from 1 to possibly 10 (if
small) ostrich feathers, large or 'down'. The amount and color of
feathers should be checked with the costume coordinator. Period
feathers can be difficult to find since modern colored feathers
tend to by dyed too brightly. Natural, white, or primary colors
are encouraged. Pastel or neon colors will not be allowed. No other
types of feathers allowed.
- Are easily the most expensive accessory of any costume, and where
the most leeway will be given. Avoid china flats in all but the
most desperate circumstances. You will be on your feet all day,
and you will be walking on rocks and mud. The best alternative to
custom shoes (which are preferred, but not required) is to find
a low, possibly one strapped, seamless shoe. On any shoe, any rubber
soles or modern comforts should be hidden or minimized.
- Examples of alternatives: Modified Birkenstocks, "mary jane"
- Black is acceptable but brown other natural colors are recommended
- NO BOOTS! No laces, no eyelets, no more than one strap and small
buckle. Leeway will not be given for these things except to guests.
- Katzbalger and Scabbard
- This requirement is not mandatory during the probationary period
in the guild. However, all male, Full Members are required to have
katzbalger. Any exceptions must be approved through the Fetchmeister
- Gloves are not mandatory, but highly recommended - they will save
a lot of wear-and-tear on your hands. Acceptable gloves are short
or no cuff, black is acceptable but brown or other neutral colors
are recomended, leather gloves - no fencing gloves. Try gardening
gloves, women's sizes fit many men.
- Head covering
- It is perfectly acceptable for a man to go bareheaded (with a
hat when needed). In at least half the woodcuts the men have no
head covering but their hats. Most of the rest have, for the lack
of a better term, a German arming cap or 'schlappe'. This is a cap
that comes down past the ears on the sides and has a line of slashing
around the crown. No English arming caps or 'bigins' style caps
will be allowed. If you have hair longer than mid neck or more than
one ear piercing you should have a 'schlappe'. If wearing a helmet
you will want some sort of padding, if it is not a german arming
cap it must stay hidden. Also acceptable but not recommended as
they are seen in very few woodcuts is a haube or caul. It's a small
skullcap, often embroidered and/or netted, silk and nice trim is
acceptable. No metallic machine netting allowed.
- Jerkin/ LederGollar
- Light armor made of leather. A fitted cross over front "vest"
with scalloped edge shoulder and waist flaps. Front may not show
more than half way down the chest. Documentation must be given for
the slashing pattern. This is not required but is recommended as
many landsknecht are wearing them in the woodcuts. No rank required
- Most men have found that a small drawstring bag, big enough for
money and a key, tucked down the doublet or in a sleeve is all they
need. Try it. It is really only appropriate for a man to wear a
more substantial pouch when about the town shopping, he would not
be carrying it on march or into battle, his frau would be taking
care of it. For when you are shopping or for those who absolutely
require a pouch at all times they can be simple drawstrings, squares
with flaps, or the gathered bag with little pouches attached that
is so characteristically german- see woodcuts- this is most recommended-
the type with the top hinge half circle or half rectangle opening.
They must hang down from the belt by one or two points. They cannot
be held flush with the belt. No more metal lidded pouches.
General Guidelines, Fabrics, and Accessories